After two weeks of sturm und drang, it seems that the lamination problem is becoming clear.
Snediker found a source for the Aerodux-500 glue in England; they agreed to ship it to him. He had to pay the manufacturer to pack and ship it to him, since the uncured glue is classified as a "Hazardous Material", and it would have to be flown internationally, and brought through customs.
The package didn't come when it was supposed to. After two weeks of international phone calls, and post-event analysis of tracking, mis-shipping, and slow handling, it seems that the paperwork got separated from the shipment, so it sat in the UPS Boston terminal without being identified, waiting to be straightened out, for three or four days.
About a week after the shipment was supposed to be here, I strongly suggested we speak to Gougeon Bros about the folklore which said that white oak couldn't be glued with epoxy, and see what could be done.
Their engineer spoke with Dave, and admitted that there could be a problem with laminating bent frames. He said that the cause is not maladhesion, or any weird characteristic of the wood, but glue starvation in the lamination, caused by the force applied to the laminations required to shape the frame.
He suggested the following procedure:
Coat
semicure
recoat
cure
test
After hearing about this discussion, Andrew mentioned that he had also used large (quarter-millimeter) glass spheres mixed into the glue (although he didn't know of a source) or short lengths of monofilament laid in the glue, to prevent the same problem.

Frame end progress

Work has stopped on scarfing the frame ends. We have installed the laminated ends which were completed, but now we have no more glue.
The only glue I know of that is really satisfactory is the Aerodux-500, and yet that seems not to be available. As of Tuesday afternoon, the distributor in California admitted that he did not have it in hand.
We sought alternatives. We made up sets of laminations using epoxy, Weldwood resorcinol clamped lightly,and Weldwood clamped tightly. We then broke them using a weight suspended below a fork lift. We also broke a sample of the Aerodux which had been cut off of frame scarfs.
The Weldwood failed completely. The glue itself split apart, indicating its cohesion failed rather than its adhesion to the oak slats. DAP system engineers promised an investigation, if we would send them our lamination and glue batch.
The epoxy was very strong; the glue sucessfully adhered, until the slats themselves split apart. We would use epoxy, except for the folklore we have heard, which says that West system epoxy does not adhere to oak.
The Aerodux scrap also broke by wood fiber failure, rather than by failure of adhesion or cohesion. In view of the poor reputation that epoxy has with oak, I am planning to wait for the Aerodux.
Work therefore has begun on reinstalling the rudder. Fitting it in place, using the replacement shaft, showed that we need a little more trimming on the dutchman at the top of the stern post, and I am doing that. When that fits, we will install the bottom bearing.
Roger is shaping the false keel timber, using his favorite adze. It should be done quickly.
We discussed the false keel liner. Its failure was due to delignification of the wood next to the bronze liner, and excessive wear at the bottom opening for the centerboard. The bronze liner was not reusable, and a replica would have been awkward and unsatisfactory to install. Instead, the present plan is to line the false keel with G-10 FRP, and install a UMHWP (ultra-high molecular weight polyethyline) replaceable wear insert on both sides of the bottom opening, to carry the side load of the centerboard. We will attach the G-10 with West System G-Flex, which is designed for gluing plastic to wet wood. The UMHWP, formed into a 1" by 2" bar, will be attached behind the bronze worm shield with wood screws. All the parts have been ordered.

Frames update

Four new laminated frame ends have been built, and number 29 has been installed. (pictures coming) Each frame end is scarfed to the upper frame and the half-lapped scarf is secured with a bronze strap. A bronze flat head machine screw goes through the doubled layer of planking, the frame and the strap, secured by a bronze washer and a heavy nut. The end of the bolt is cut to size and punched to secure it.
The same scarfing procedure has been followed for the forward frames, numbers 13, 15, 17 and 19, except that the shape of these frame ends is straight enough so they can be shaped from ordinary planks, instead of multi-ply laminations.
In summary, the status is that all the floors from 24 to 12 are now fitted in place; those from 29 to 23 are fitted, but are being temporarily removed, one or two at a time, for ease in installing the frames. The odd frame ends are being installed first; 13, 15, 17, and 29 are done.
We are now held up because of a shortage of glue. Snediker recommended that the frame ends be laminated using Aerodux-500. Apparently, though, the only US supplier is in California and not too responsive. At any rate, we have used up T&S's supply and are awaiting more.

First lamination

Today, we finally started building the most difficult of the frame ends. These are for the ten split frames around the centerboard, and they reach deep into the bilge, around a moderately tight curve.
Snediker decided that they would be build out of 16 eighth-inch slats, about two inches wide, laminated around a curved plywood mold. The slats are of knot-free quarter-sawn oak, about forty-two inches long, which is four inches longer than necessary. We plan that the frames will come out with one flat side, so that the other side can be planed easily and the bevel can be cut into the concave side to match the curve of the planking.
They are laminated using Aerodux-500 resorcinol adhesive which claims to be water- and weather-proof. Its technical specifications are excellent; it passes boiling and strength tests for use with exterior and underwater structural oak timbers.
Snediker made two inside molds out of four layers of half-inch plywood, cut to the curves of the frame templates. He drilled one-and-a-half inch holes into the center of the jigs to hold the heads of bar clamps and screwed a sixteenth-inch steel strap around the outside to help with clamping. Two frame ends can be laminated on each jig at one time.
He intends to recut each jig after using it twice. The first jig will be used for frames 29 and 28, the second for 27 and 26, then the first jig will be recut for frames 25 and 24, and the second for frames 23 and 22.
I can't help too much with the planning, but I became the apprentice cutting the slats from kiln-dried oak planks. When it came time for the glue, both of us were up to our elbows in mixing and applying.
We were able to assemble four frames in an afternoon. We used about ten liquid ounces of glue per frame; this averages out to 175 gm/square meter.

Yesterday, I narrowly avoided what I now believe would have been an engineering disaster. I had planned to repair the frame ends by replacing them with parts machined from phenolic plastic sheet. Yesterday morning, I awoke with a vague worry about its strength in applications subject to shock and vibration while under tension; I undertook a brief experiment to allay my fears.
Introduction:
Oak has been used in marine construction since before America was founded. The scantlings of modern ships and the intuition of boatwrights are based on their experience with its properties; the plans for RUNE specified that its ribs be built of oak steamed and bent into shape.
Since the second World War, plastics have been applied to diverse engineering situations. Phenolic resin is reinforced with cloth, formed into sheets under pressure and heat, and available for easy machining with woodworking tools. Its strength is measured with standardized tests, and its properties are predictable. The tensile strength cited in the literature is comparable to that of oak, and because it does not have a favored grain orientation, heavy phenolic sheet should be ideal for making the curved shapes of RUNE's frames.
On the other hand, its thermoset resin seems stiff, and I worried that it might be too brittle for the varying loads applied to a boat hull. Oak can respond to cyclic and impact stresses without catastrophic failure; is the same true of phenolic sheet?
Therefore the null hypothesis is that parts made of phenolic resin sheets are comparable in strength and fracture toughness to oak.
Procedure:
I cut the same shapes in oak and phenolic. The shapes resembled the cross-section of an I-beam, with 2 inch by 4 inch rectangles at the top and bottom, connected by a 6-inch stick, with a cross-section 3/4 inch square. The three zones blended into each other with fillets of 1.5 inch radius.
I drilled two 5/16-inch holes in the top and bottom rectangles to connect them to chains. The chains were shackled to nylon straps and the linked arrangement was used with a fork lift to raise a large oak timber an inch or two above the ground.
After the timber was raised and lowered, I drilled a one-eighth inch hole through the square section, and raised it again. While the timber was being held by the test shape, I tapped sharply on the side of the piece, aiming for the side of the central stick near the eighth-inch hole. I then lowered the timber and drilled another hole in the same plane.
I repeated the cycle of drilling, raising, and rapping until the piece broke.
Results:
I first tested the phenolic piece. I drilled a first hole front to back at the mid-line of the stick. I then drilled side to side above the first hole. Third, I drilled a second hole, front to back about an eighth inch away from the first, and parallel to it. After the third hole, the phenolic ruptured abruptly, in the plane of the two parallel holes.
I then tested the oak piece. I raised and lowered the timber, drilling first front to back at the middle plane, then side to side above it, then I returned to the middle plane. I drilled four parallel holes at the mid-plane, and then two side to side holes through the same plane, before the oak splintered and parted.
Discussion:
The mass of the timber, sized 13 inches by 15.5 inches by 147 inches, was calculated to be about 802 lb using a density of 46.8 lbf per cubic foot. If the tensile strength of the phenolic were 6000 psi, it should be able to lift a load of 3375 pounds at its full cross section. A wide range of strengths are reported for oak, but it should also be able to lift the entire timber at its full cross section.
Calculating the effective cross sectional area is difficult for holes that are not co-planar. In this discussion I calculate the cross sectional area by assuming that the fibers do not adhere to each other at all, perpendicular to the tensile stress. The area is calculated by projecting all the holes to a single plane perpendicular to the pull.
The cross section of the phenolic test piece after three holes were subtracted was 0.312 square inches. Since the sample broke when the area decreased to that point, the maximum tensile strength for the phenolic sample would be 2570 pounds-force per square inch.
The equivalent calculation for the oak test piece yields a cross-section of 0.094 square inches, from which a maximum strength of 8560 lbf/sq. in may be inferred.
Conclusion
Considering the uncertainties in the testing method, it can be concluded that the tensile strength of phenolic laminate, when subjected to impacts, is about a third that of oak. Since the design of this boat is predicated upon the characteristics of its wood frames, it would be unnecessarily risky to substitute the phenolic sheet.
Without having repeated the tests, I cannot infer the accuracy of these measurements.
Acknowledgements:
All the sample preparation and forklift operation was done by Roger Hambidge; I received significant suggestions for safe operating procedures from Wade and Joel, and the debate with Dave Snediker focused my thoughts on the need for this test.

Centerboard trunk waiting for frames

The present status is:

• The two centerboard clamps have been made and fitted.
• The notches for the clamps are done, and the holes for the wooden trunk have been bored in all the parts.
• The trunk itself has now been removed and the clamps replaced by temporary stiffeners to allow easy replacement of the frame ends next to it.
• We have received a huge piece of linen phenolic to use for the frame ends.

Frame planning

I looked at the mechanical properties of the phenolic sheets. Phenolic is a fiber-reinforced resin laminate, available in sheets, tubes and rods. It is a thermosetting plastic, with good electrical properties. According to one manufacturer, linen phenolic type LE has a tensile strength of 13000 psi “lengthwise” and 9,000 psi “crosswise”. This compares to a tensile strength along the grain of 11,300 to 16,300 for “oak” in Mechanical Properties of Wood, by David W. Green, Jerrold E. Winandy, and David E. Kretschmann. The paper phenolic (XX type) has about half the fracture toughness of the LE plastic. Note that the tensile strength at yield for King Starboard™, a marine polymer sheet, is 4000 psi. The principal reason for using Starboard would be its low moisture absorption, about 1percent of the phenolic.

New water heater

When I received the water heater, I saw in the manual that changing the heater element requires space in front of the heater. Because I want to make sure that it can be done without removing the engine, I shall take care in planning the space under the galley sink.
A similar space limitation constrains the position of the potable water pressure pump

Keel installation

The keel has been installed. Its floating dovetail spline was easily inserted from starboard to port, and a bolt was bored through it (in accordance with the construction plan).
All keel bolts are driven in from the top, far enough through the keel so their threads are seen. Their shaft is the full diameter of the bored hole; a 1¼-inch bung hole is counter-bored into the keel. A nut and washer are installed on the bottom end; a dollop of tar and a length of cotton wicking are wrapped around the shaft. Then the bolt is driven back up until the upper threads are visible, and the upper nut and washer are installed. The bung hole is filled with a half-and-half mixture of paint and tar, and the bung is inserted.
Status summary:

• The bronze mast step has been attached to the keel. These carriage bolts were driven in from the bottom, but they were otherwise installed the same way.
• The original white-oak wedges which supported the mast step and its attached bronze frames between the keel and the intermediate stem were deteriorated from inadequate drainage. We replace them with machined phenolic ones.
• The centerboard trunk is nearly finished. It has been simplified even more; its sides are parallel, not tapered at all from top to bottom. I cut and threaded six two-foot seven-sixteenth-inch-diameter bolts to pass through its walls, and ten half-inch bolts pass through the floors on both sides of the trunk. All its lateral bolt holes have been cut, and the vertical holes through the centerboard trunk have been successfully bored. The holes through the floors are quite exacting in their required alignment, because they have to pass through a small rectangle where the floor meets the keel. Roger is boring them on the bench; he will then use the frame holes to guide the holes through the keel. The corresponding holes in the previous keel were not so precisely located; some of the bolts went into the keel rabbet and others went into the limber holes.
• The stern post dutchman is nearly done. Luke’s brass tube is no longer available, so far as Dave can tell. We will replace it with a G-10 one, to protect the horn timber from water and worm damage, and build a separate brass sheet to shield the aft end of the stern post. The dutchman will be glued in after the G-10 tube has arrived and been machined to insert into the bored rudder hole
• After some debate, I am replacing the rudder stock. It is very difficult to remove from the boat, so it came in for careful scrutiny. Where it lay in the water, it had some loss of zinc, and I could not argue that we can still rely on it. The replacement rod, of naval brass, needs some machining, to cut its taper and its keyways, but it should arrive in the middle of the week.
• The cut-less bearing has arrived, and the stern tube is ready for installation; we decided to wait until the engine is in place to bore its upper hanger-bolt into place.
• The engine paint is complete.
• Bilge paint has been applied to the area aft of the centerboard trunk.
• The cabin ladder has been removed to facilitate trunk construction.
• Snediker pulled plank 3 on the port side to simplify the centerboard installation, and has replaced the splined-in bottom sections of three more floors under the engine, which were badly deteriorated.
• The keel bolts aft of frame 33, and in frames 33, 32, 31, 22, 20, 17, 16, 15, 14, 13 and 12 have been installed. On the after two bolts, oversize washers were fabricated out of ¼-inch bronze. Pending are those next to the centerboard trunk and those that hold the ballast.
• After being unable to locate grown crooks for the frame ends, we have decided to replace the mid-ship frame ends with ones cut from manufactured linen-reinforced phenolic plastic sheet, 1¾ inch thick. This is free of short-grain problems, certified void-free, reasonably water-resistant, and its cost will be less than laminating the ends ourselves. We can easily bevel the frames with band saws to meet the planks. Snediker’s measurements indicate we need one 4-foot x 4-foot sheet.
• The centerboard clamp will be reshaped slightly to accommodate keel bolts more widely spaced than they were originally. The new pattern will avoid having the keel bolts exposed in the bilge, because they will pass through the centers of the floors.

Now pending:

• Complete fitting of the port centerboard floors
• Fabricate the centerboard clamps
• Notch floors 30—24 for the centerboard clamps
• Install the wooden centerboard trunk.
• Install the metal centerboard trunk, with its sheave
• Attach the wooden centerboard trunk cap
• Bore holes for new head seacocks
• Build foundations for water heater and water pump
• Cut bronze crush shields for the ballast keel floors.
• Get plans for head floor pan.
• Change transmission oil, engine oil and oil filter.

Trunk and keel progress

The extender boards on the wooden centerboard trunk are ready to be installed. The trunk mortises in the keel for the trunk are nearly complete. A second threaded pad is being welded onto the trunk liner, port side, to pull its oil-canned sides tightly against the inside walls of the wooden trunk. It was too cold to paint the engine today.
I replaced the bottom half of frame 30, which was broken. Because there was no planking around it, I left it oversize, to be faired when the keel and garboards are installed.
Jeff pulled the stern tube and finished removing the rudder stock today. When Luke built the rudder, the lower end of the stock was surrounded by a piece of brass tubing (to line the wooden walls of the rudder tube), the bottom 7 inches of which were flattened and screwed into the stern post. It was this tube which bound against the rudder stock and prevented it from coming out. It will be replaced.
McMaster-Carr sells brass tubing, apparently of the correct size, which we will order tomorrow.
The stern post is badly checked. The checking is particularly bad between the exit of the rudder tube and the bung around the lower end of the first floor-to-stern-post bolt. Refusing to replace the stern post, I consented to fabricate and install a dutchman between the new stern post liner and the bolt.
Pending:

• Receipt of water heater
• Install stern post dutchman
• Order brass tubing
• Initiate lamination of frame ends

Centerboard trunk progress

The centerboard passed its pressure test; no overnight loss was seen. The bronze centerboard trunk has now been fitted into the plank keel, and a bronze slot liner has been mortised into the keel where the slot in the ballast keel would otherwise expose it to worm damage.
Today David and Roger worked on construction of the wooden centerboard trunk. We couldn’t find sufficiently wide quarter-sawn teak planks to replicate the previous engineering. I insisted that the additional timber not just be pasted on the top of the wooden trunk; I want it below the trunk clamp. So Snediker proposed several triple-wedge constructions, all of which were quite elaborate. Scott suggested that he just add small, one-bolt-width (about 1 ¾ inch) panels between the top panels and the bottom ones, and bolt the rest in a regular pattern.
The trunk panels are held to the plank keel by through bolts, and the floors are clamped to the keel by two trunk clamp timbers, one on each side, so the entire construction seems sufficiently robust.
It was also decided that the planks would be sided to just two thicknesses, the bottom plan to 2 inches, and the upper one to 1 5/8 inch, as Luke did, rather than being tapered as Nielsen specified. This makes the construction much less complicated.

Non-critical task porgress:

• I installed the new thermostat.
• I degreased, sanded and painted the primer coat on the engine, using engine primer from NAPA.
• Yesterday, it became clear that the bronze liner around the tiller (upper) segment of the rudder stock needs repair. It is fastened into the stern post by about a dozen screws, all of which are failed. The segment is too long to go up; it hits the aft wall of the cockpit. It would strike the propeller shaft if it were to slide down. Thus, we must pull the prop shaft, after removing the propeller. The screw was tightly corroded onto the shaft; it took a day and a half of stress applied by a wheel puller, percussion, and heat from a torch to break it free. It now has been removed, but the cut-less bearing case (or stern tube) needs to be removed as well.
• I received a variable-speed water pump from Kellogg Marine Supply, and I ordered the water heater tank from Defender.

Pending stuff:

• Finish trunk
• Paint engine
• Pull stern tube
• Paint engine bilge
• Fill under-engine bilge diverticuli with pitch
• Order PEX parts
• Order electric panel. It needs loads: Outlets, charger, water heater, spare.
• Order fail-safe galvanic isolator
• What about an inverter/charger combination?
• Decide the new galley configuration
• Design the new head configuration.
• I need to decide whether the battery charger is screwed or not.

Keel progress, and starting the centerboard trunk

The keel is nearly complete. Its floating dovetail spline, which holds it to the stern post, is complete and ready for insertion. About one fourth of the floor-to-plank-keel bolt holes have been bored.
Roger is building the wooden centerboard trunk; it will be made of teak, with three planks on each side, instead of Luke’s two. The boards are connected by pine splines, offset toward the inside of the trunk. The bottom of the trunk is formed into a long tenon, offset toward the outside of the trunk. The logs at the fore and aft of the trunk are of purpleheart. Today the bronze centerboard trunk liner arrived from Thavenet. They welded a broader flange on the base of the trunk so its screws into the keel could be staggered (as specified by Nielsen), rather than in a single row (as constructed). The liner was sealed with rope caulk and loaded with 3 psi of air pressure, to determine whether its pinhole leak was repaired. Tomorrow it will be measured to fit the mortise in the bottom of the keel.
Other status:

• The engine has been cleaned and returned. The engine bed timbers have been repaired and new bronze angles have been fitted to support the engine.
• The new water heater and pressure pump have been ordered.
• The emergency bilge pump has been fitted between floors 22 and 23.
• New keel bolts are fabricated, except for the ones for the ballast keel.
• The engine parts have been ordered and have arrived.
• I have replaced the oil pressure sender and switch, and zinc.
• Several frame ends are complete, but not yet installed.

Other pending jobs:

• Mortise a panel into the bottom of the keel to shield the top of the slot through the ballast keel.
• Install the new thermostat into the engine
• Prime the engine
• Paint the engine bed timbers

Add these new tasks:

• Install a new AC power panel, to control the water heater as well the other shore power loads
• Replace the galvanic isolator with one that fails safe

The engine comes off the boat

Today, Snediker & I moved the engine to the floor of the boat bay. We set up TaySned’s staging aft of the cabin to starboard, and used it to support the end of an I-beam. The other end was set on a pillar against the south wall of the bay. A carriage on the I-beam allowed us to move the engine easily up from the cabin roof, across to the edge of the boat, and then to lower it to a wheeled crib on the floor. I asked Mike Horrigan to de-scale the engine with a needle gun.

The keel is nearly shaped, without the rabbet, still a little over-sized. Today I finished removing the old keel bolts, except for the one through Floor #34. Now we need to get cracking on the frame repairs.

Paul Connolly suggested a few additional tasks:

• Fabricate a bolt-on fairlead to lead the coolant hoses to the desired site around the transmission. · Improve the engine drip pan as needed.
• Check with Hansen Engineering for other routine replacement items on the engine, and for items which might be associated with the hot water heater installation

Demolition, lifting the engine, and a new keel

The status today is:

• Staging was erected on deck to raise the engine from the cabin.
• All engine wiring was disconnected.
• The engine ground wire was cut.
• The exhaust elbow was rotated to clear the engine room lintel.
• The engine sea water hoses were disconnected.
• The engine has been removed forward, and then lifted to the staging above the companionway. It is resting there, supported by two timbers, and the come-along.

All of the nuts on the keel bolts were completely dezincified, so they broke apart when struck. The keel bolts are removed in the floor to frame 30. The floor keel bolts in frames 31, 32, and 33 are still stuck. The diagonal keel bolts from frame 33 have not yet been removed.

The lumber for the keel has been found and bought from Gannon and Benjamin. It was shipped to New Bedford, and retrieved from there. It has been laid out (successfully avoiding the checks), and the rabbet has been roughly cut on one side.
Additional tasks:

• Move engine to the floor, so it can be cleaned away from the boat.
• Scale engine
• Paint engine
• Replace engine mounts
• Replace engine temperature sender
• Replace engine coolant output venturi
• Connect engine coolant hoses for the water heater.
• Replace engine seawater impeller
• Change engine transmission oil
• Align engine
• Clean and paint bilges beneath engine
• Drill engine bilge access holes
• Reinstall engine.
• Test engine
• Fill under-engine frame notches with pitch
• Fill all the keel bolt pockets with roofing tar or grease
• Install emergency bilge pump

More demolition

It has became clear that the only way to remove the keel bolts under the engine is to remove it from the boat. The extraction is complicated by its mass and its size, but it can pass through the companionway.

Facing my fears

Now that the keel has come off, I have decided on a major expansion, to replace it. If it were left in the boat, two major repairs would be required: one at the centerboard trunk, as discovered by Scott 10 years ago, where two inches of the keel from the starboard edge of the centerboard slot is delignified; and a second at the bottom rudder fitting, where a large check has split the plank away from the stern post. Besides the critical major repairs, there are at least four large splits where knots in the oak have failed, and the gaps should be filled with something. In the process of rebuilding the keel, all the bolts would have to be removed and the holes would need to be bunged and rebored, to ensure tightness. With a new keel, the holes would be tight and the original frame pockets will be removed, so the quantity of exposed end grain will be vastly reduced.
Progress to date:

• Remove all frame-to-floor bolts and floors on odd-numbered frames from 13 to 21, and all half-floors from 24 to 29.
• Replace floors at 21, 19, and 17.
• Reef caulking below the stringer for plank reconditioning
• Reconditioned 3 planks.
• Removed centerboard sheave
• Removed bronze centerboard trunk port lateral bolt

Additional tasks:

• Replace plank #3A and 3B starboard
• Replace plank #3A port
• Replace Keel

Interior Demolition Stage 2

I received the plans for Rune from the Peabody on Monday, 1/12.

Progress to date:

• Removal of all cabin sole and sole beams.
• Remove head.
• Remove V berth
• Remove Retention tank
• Cut away bottom of head forward and aft athwart-ship bulkheads.
• Remove head door, its trim, starboard locker door, its trim, starboard base locker door, and its trim.
• Cut away bottom quarter head fore-and-aft bulkhead.
• Cut away base of forward galley stove bulkhead.
• Remove #1 battery box base.
• Uncover and remove bungs for all scheduled frames and floors. These are frames 13-29.
• Remove fasteners for alternate scheduled frames forward of centerboard trunk
• Remove fasteners for two centerboard trunk partial frames and floors.
• Remove two partial floors next to centerboard trunk, out of ten.
• Remove four bronze lateral drifts which hold the centerboard trunk in the keel.

When we removed the false keel, we found that the slot for the centerboard was so deteriorated that a huge, complicated dutchman would be needed to repair it. Because of the false keel, and because so much of the interior furniture has to be removed, the scope of the job has expanded to include:

• Replace false keel deadwood.
• Replace slot liner in false keel deadwood with GRP sheet.
• Replace all plumbing hoses, pipes and manifold with PEX system.
• Reroute the electrical lines in the bilge.
• Improve access to all bilge pockets in the head (the forward one was inaccessible).
• Realign and simplify the plumbing for the sanitary system.
• Remove the LORAN and old GPS electronics, and replace panel for navigation locker.
  
• Build retention devices for all cabin sole pieces.

Ballast bolt failure

When we took off the keel, we found that two of the blots which hold on the ballast were seriously corroded. As was noted in my first post, one failed without warning during spring cleaning. When, last week, we forced the ballast away from the plank keel to remove it, a second one snapped. Today, Snediker and I spoke at length with Ed McClave, of McClave, Philbrick and Giblin. He was convinced that the two aftermost keel bolts corroded in the way they did because they weren’t silicon bronze, but were naval brass instead. Their color was slightly different from that of the other nine bolts. The two alloys are equivalent in strength, but the brass is more vulnerable to losing zinc when continuoously submerged in sea water.

Demolition Begins

The progress to date:

• Centerboard has been removed.
• Centerboard pennant has been removed.
• Ballast keel has been removed.
• Worm shield has been removed from the deadwood.
• False keel deadwood has been removed.
• Centerboard slot liner has been removed from the deadwood.
• Interior table has been removed.
• Ninety per cent of the main cabin sole has been removed.
• Bronze centerboard trunk has been removed.
• Paul Haley surveyed the scope of work on 1/5/09.

T & S generated a scope-of-work document, with consultation from Paul Haley. Its summary is that the keel is satisfactory, the bronze centerboard trunk is fine, but the wood centerboard trunk and the frame heels, between the engine and the base of the stem, need to be replaced. Paul Haley identified this in his survey in early 2008. The job will require removing all interior joinery, fabricating scarfed frame pieces, installing them, and restoring the joiner work.
I asked that I be assigned to Taylor & Snediker's crew as an apprentice, to reduce my out-of-pocket cost.
I called the Peabody Essex Museum, again. Photographic services admitted that she had not filled the order, from before Christmas, and promised to send it today.